BEAL TREATS ITS SKINEvery sheath on every Beal dynamic rope is given a special treatment to increase its resistance to wear resulting from abrasion; falls; dirt; the wet; and in so doing, significantly increasing its active lifetime.
Single Ropes: Ropes certified to be used by themselves. Ideal for sport routes and everyday climbing where long rappels will not be required.
Half Ropes: A rope system comprised of two lines that are usually thinner than single ropes. The leader must tie into both lines, but clips only one line into each piece of pro making half ropes the preferred choice for wandering routes where gear must be placed in zigzag arrangements. Half ropes are also ideal on routes with shoddy protection and loose rock. A single line through a piece of pro or anchor places less stress on the gear than twin ropes and if one line gets damaged by falling rock, the other can still be intact and perfectly safe. Two seconds may follow the leader each tied into only one line.
Twin Ropes: A rope system comprised of two lines that must be used together and in parallel at all times. The leader and the follower must be tied into both lines and both lines must be clipped into every piece of gear and anchors. Twin ropes are lighter than half ropes and excel on long, protectable routes where rappels often require the full length of the rope.
Dynamic climbing ropes are designed to absorb the impact of a fall in such a way that minimizes the amount of force put on the climber and the anchor system. The following ratings are used to help climbers compare factors like a rope's capacity to absorb energy, durability and strength.
The fall factor
The fall factor is used to evaluate the force of a fall on a climber. The fall factor is calculated by dividing the height of the fall by the length of the rope deployed. For example, if a climber falls from 20 meters above the belay and 2 meters above their last piece of protection, the fall factor would be ~0.1 or 2/20. It is important to note that the fall factor is not simply a function of the length of a fall, but of the ratio of the length of the fall to amount of rope deployed. With more rope deployed, the rope can stretch more thereby absorbing more of the force generated by the fall. Additionally, the fall factor can only be applied as a theoretical function as it assumes there is no friction between the belay and the last piece of protection. Such friction, present in most climbing systems, would absorb some of the force generated by a fall.
Impact force
Impact force is a rating used to determine how well a rope absorbs the energy of a fall. All climbing ropes are rated with a maximum impact force that allows the consumer to compare the energy absorption capabilities of various ropes. The lower the maximum impact force, the more energy a rope can absorb thereby softening a fall. For single ropes, the maximum impact force must be less than 12 kN for a factor 1.77 fall with a mass of 80 kg. For half ropes, the maximum impact force must be less than 8 kN for a factor 1.77 fall with a mass of 55 kg. For twin ropes (tested with two parallel strands), the maximum impact force must be less than 12 kN for a factor 1.77 fall with a mass of 80 kg. The maximum impact force is calculated in a laboratory and simulates a severe fall that responsible climbers are unlikely to duplicate in the field.
Number of UIAA Falls
The UIAA falls rating is used to determine how many severe falls a rope can withstand before breaking. Generally speaking, the higher the number the stronger the rope. Single ropes must withstand a minimum of five successive factor 1.77 falls with a mass of 80 kg. Double ropes must withstand a minimum of five successive factor 1.77 falls with a mass of 55 kg. Twin ropes (tested with two parallel strands) must withstand a minimum of twelve successive factor 1.77 falls with a mass of 80 kg.
•Dynamic Elongation: This is the stretch of the rope during the first UIAA test fall. For all climbing ropes, dynamic elongation cannot exceed 40%.
•Static Elongation: Measured under a load of 80 kg, it must not exceed 10% for single ropes, 12% for double ropes, or 10% for twin ropes (tested with two parallel strands).
The lif of Your rope
The life of a rope depends on the frequency and intensity of use as well as exposure to UV rays and humidity which can gradually degrade the integrity of the fibers that comprise the rope. When stored under proper conditions, ropes can have a shelf life of up to five years before first use without affecting the rope's climbing life.
Follow these general guidelines to help evaluate the life of your rope:
•Daily use with high intensity: 6 months to 1 year
•Weekly use with high intensity: 1-2 years
•Daily in-season use of average intensity: 2-3 years
•Weekly in-season use of average intensity: 3-5 years
•Less than weekly in-season use of average intensity: 5-7 years
•Very occasional in-season use of light intensity: up to 10 years
Replace your rope immediately if:
•It has held a major fall approaching fall factor 2
•Inspection reveals or even indicates damage to the core
•The sheath is seriously worn
•Any part of the rope has come in contact with damaging chemicals or agents
•There is the slightest doubt about its safety
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